Dunchurch Pools Marina (Oxford Canal) – Wednesday 15th July
We got back to Mary H yesterday, about 3pm, after a good journey up. We had driven up in the motorhome as we are having a few days away in her for my sister’s 80th birthday once our summer cruise is over.
It was so hot making the unloading a real struggle, but eventually it was done, then the unpacking had to be done. Eventually the boat looked tidy but not clean as there was a thick layer of dust everywhere. The spiders had been to work and there were cobwebs everywhere - there was no sign of any spiders though! Maybe they had finished on Mary H and moved onto next door!
It was an early night and a cool one, I actually had to shut
the front doors as I was quite chilly.
Kent Road Bridge No 69 (Oxford Canal) – Thursday 16th July
We were up bright and early as we had a Tesco order booked between 9am and 10am. As we usually find they are early we were ready by 8.30am - she didn’t come until 9.45am! I say this every year, but once everything was brought into the boat we wondered where it was all going to go! This year we did have a problem with too much freezer stuff. Somehow, I had managed to order two large bags of chips and I just couldn’t get both into the freezer. Fortunately, Tracey said that they could ram them into their freezer - thank you :-)
We left our berth and moved round to the diesel pontoon to fill up and noticed that Over the Moon was waiting for us outside the marina. After ecstatic dog welcomes and big hugs from the humans we were on our way.
The locks at Hilmorton were the first locks of the trip and we sailed through the first two but only one of the bottom locks was open so we had a hold up there.
I decided to take Rio for a walk to the second bridge. I was almost there when I got a call from Richard to say that they had decided to stop, so I had to turn round and walk back. It was so hot and my back was aching - I will say no more However, it was a really nice spot. We sat out and had a cream tea (as you do on the towpath!) followed by bubbly - it was really nice. The cream tea was a late Father’s Day present for Richard from my son, Robert.
5 miles
3 locks
Bridge 12 (Oxford Canal) – Friday 17th July
It was quite a chilly night considering how hot the day had
been - we actually had to shut the front doors.
Still, it was much nicer than some of the hot nights we have spent on
Mary H over the years. It was also a
much cooler day for cruising and Rio was able to take his rightful place on top
of the boat, being the master of all he surveyed! It had been too hot yesterday
for him to be up there and he really wasn’t happy!
We had been travelling alongside the railway for quite a while, so didn’t want to moor up at that point, as the noise of the trains thundering passed was very loud. Once we got away from it, we started to look for somewhere to stop for the night. We found one place under the trees but we didn’t fit the hole! We were so close. We moved on and Steve found a nice spot and moored up, but we couldn’t get into the side. In the end we reversed back and tied up alongside OTM as the canal was quite wide at that point.
One of the things that has always intrigued me on the North Oxford Canal are all the abandoned parts. Now I have found my new friend, Jem (Google’s Gemini AI), I asked him and why they were there and what they did to straighten the canal. I am now much wiser!
On this image (courtesy of Waterway Routes, which I use all the time) you can see where the canal used to go. When James Brindley originally designed the Oxford Canal in the 1770s, he relied heavily on the contour method. To save money on building expensive embankments or digging deep cuttings, he wrapped the canal around the natural curves of the hills to keep the water completely level. While this was cheap to build, the route was incredibly circuitous. It was so winding that boatmen used to joke they could cruise for an entire day and still hear the church bells of Brinklow or Braunston! In the 1820s newer, straighter canals were being proposed that threatened to steal the Oxford Canal's lucrative coal trade between the Midlands and London. It was also the dawn of steam trains which meant the canal network had to drastically speed up or face extinction. Between 1829 and 1834 a massive modernizing project took place. They essentially took a knife to the canal's squiggly lines, building bold embankments, aqueducts, and deep straight cuttings. This engineering feat shortened the North Oxford route by roughly 11 to 14 miles - nearly halving the original distance. There was then the question of what happened to the villages and the lucrative trade wharves that sat on the old loops. The company couldn't just dry them up, so they kept the entrances open, transforming them into dead-end "arms" so working boats could still reach the village wharves.
12 miles
River Anker Aqueduct (Oxford Canal/Ashby Canal) – Saturday 18th July
Last night’s mooring place wasn’t that far from Hawkesbury Junction where the Oxford Canal goes onto the Coventry Canal. There is a stop lock, Sutton Stop, with a drop of only about 7 inches. When the Oxford and Coventry canal companies joined their lines here in the late 1700s, they absolutely loathed each other. Water was the lifeblood of a canal, and neither company wanted the other to "steal" their water supply when boats moved between the networks. To solve the bickering, the stop lock was built as a physical gatekeeper. Because the drop is so incredibly shallow, passing through it takes only a minute, making it one of the quickest lock transitions in the country.
Once through the lock there is a lovely basin and then there is a very interesting 90 degree turn to get from one canal to the other. The turn is just after the lovely Grade II listed foot (or horse) bridge. In the basin is the Greyhound Inn, it has always looked packed in the past but we were early today and there was just one person having a coffee.
Between Hawkesbury Junction and Marsden Junction sits Charity Dock, which is one of the most famous, eccentric, and unforgettable landmarks on the entire UK inland waterways network. The yard - run for decades by the Gilbert family - is famous for its dense, chaotic, and artistic clutter. I just love it.
At Marsden Junction we turned onto the Ashby Canal, a canal renowned for its water levels - or lack of them! People had told me that it was 5 inches down on its winter levels which is fine, so we thought we would give it a try. Waterway Routes shows mooring places and the interactive map was absolutely spot on. We moored on one side of a bend and OTM on the other but the boat in front of us moved so Steve moved and we were back together again. The towpath was a bit narrow but we managed to shove our chairs into the hedge and, as the towpath was very quiet, we were able to sit out until dinner time.
9 miles
1 lock
